Advice from a Friendly Ranger & The Night Sky

On my last day in Yosemite, the car was still not handling well on the way to the park entrance and there was also a stone lodged between the tyre and the alloys...On my way out of seeing the wonders of Yosemite...glacier point, mirror lake and a few other walks, I asked the ranger to look at the car for a second opinion...

The ranger really understood my situation and said he was frustrated with hire companies because some never the check the cars before they are leased out again to a new customer. He sat in the car, he checked the wheels and then he delivered the verdict..he said that the car was not to be driven..it was probably damaged before it got to me and perhaps, this may have caused the steering to behave in the way it did.

The ranger offered me advice on how to approach the company and then I got calling...
They were VERY apologetic and within three hours I had a new car...an upgrade infact and perfect for the terrain I would be covering..a Jeep 4x4!

I am angry that something overlooked before my rental could have been potentially fatal but my life is so full at the moment..I haven't got time to ponder the details any longer..I have a great new car and it's time to move on...

Infact after one of my worst travel experiences, a day later, I had one of my best...

I went out with a group of 7 other fantastic personalities..they were all fit and healthy and ready for the 4-10p.m. trek around Yosemite with our guide, Jim.

Jim was a refreshing change to many of the American people I had met so far. He was well travelled, had strong opinions and cared for the environment with a passion.
Jim was a teacher for 4 years and left it all to be a Yosemite guide. Like all guides, he had been drawn to spiritual quality of the park and its unique beauty.

There was a strong hippy population in Yosemite I was not expecting..Overall, I have found California a wasteful population...they talk about recycling and the environment but I doubt anything is ever done by the masses...but there are a few people out there who really care, I'm sure a great number of them are in Yosemite.

Jim took us to some of his favourite and lesser known places...Over rocks, through streams, through maple forest (the smell is a delicious maple syrup smell) and eventually we walked to a dome shaped mound to watch the sun go down, eat our packed lunches and share a glass of wine together. It was one of the most magical experiences my holiday has given me. One one side of the mound you had the sunset and the other mountains...with each change of colour of the sunset, the effect was mirrored in the clouds and mountains below...they developed into a deeper pink with each minute and 20 minutes later there was darkness.

There is something special about Yosemite...the Native Indians knew this..like the aboriginal people, they used their expert wisdom of the land long before the white man took the first photo or offered the first paying tourist a glimpse.. On our trip we passed the poisonous oak..if you touch it with your skin, you can develop an awful rash and blisters..the only way to prevent this is to walk round it, the Indians called this 'the way'.

On our walk back down the mound, Jim suddenly stopped and said stop, listen and foolishly we were all expecting to hear something...but there was nothing, silence, pure silence..now where do you get that? It was a very special night.

I was not expecting it to get better..but it did! We walked to glacier point..it was such a clear night...on a clear night you can see up to 60 000 stars, the milky way and satellites. I saw all three...well nearly..I'm not sure I saw all 60 000 stars, but believe me...there were quite a few.

Jim often camps out here and just stares up at the beautiful sky..I suddenly felt a hotel room was inferior to the beauty of the sky..the best room was clearly here..

I also saw two shooting stars..I had never seen anything like this!

Our only disappointment when we got back was the lack or should I say no bear sightings. However, when I got back to the hotel lobby, a man ran in to announce to all a bear was blocking his hotel room door and could someone remove it! I laughed. It sounded so amusing..it's not every day someone would say this!

However, after an hour in my room, I heard something being knocked over and shuffling around outside....remembering there was a bin outside my room (why do hotel do this?), I peeked through the spyhole to witness a brown bear scavenging for food! I was captivated..I had seen a bear! In all the years they have lived in the park, there have never been any fatalities to human beings from bears...the only two were from deer and simply because the tourists acted in a foolish manner.

Saved

Something happened to me yesterday that in years to come, I'll probably look back and re-tell it at parties, emphasising my luck and hopefully forgetting the rest that is currently fresh in my mind....

I had a 250 mile drive to Yoesemite and therefore, estimating 4-5 hours of driving and a refreshment/petrol break, I set off early.

My highway directions were followed accurately and soon I was 70 miles from my destination on California highway 140. I felt I had put all of the earlier driving experiences I had encountered to the back of an otherwise amazing trip.

Soon the temperatures were creeping up to 106 degrees!

I had just under 60 miles to go...the road outstretched before me, the heat creating puddles on the burning concrete. All around me was yellow, scorched hills and to the sides of me, cornfields.

I am a careful driver..I would subtract 10-20 miles off any speed limit...I just felt people drove too fast...even the American couple I met in Oregon said the roads were the worst and most poorly maintained they had ever driven..

I was doing 35m.p.h....I was not expecting to be involved in the most frightening experience of my life.

There was not a car on this strip of road, just me...I don't know if it was petrol on the concrete or one of the many pot-holes in the road, but all of a sudden the steering went loose and I was having to pull it back but still I was swerving all over the road into the next lane. The slow pumping of the breaks seemed to do little and when I eventually got it back to my side of the road (this was all seconds but seems much longer), the car went into a spin....I remember spinning 5-6 times and at one time, I thought the car would actually topple over. At that point, I thought about how I would ever control this situation and I thought about the potential of oncoming traffic.

I have faith in something...I'm not quite sure it is God, but this experience made me feel perhaps someone is out there, protecting me...it was certainly not my turn to make an exit. I say this because the most perfect outcome to this awful situation occurred. Facing the road again in the final spin, I did a perfect 180 degree turn offroad into a field of corn...the car, despite a few small scaratches, was still running and me, well, despite my hands shaking, I just stared out into the cornfield in disbelief at my luck.

A few minutes later, two large trucks went by and I was once again reminded of my fortune..

I knew I had to just get back in that car and drive on...and I did...all the way to my motel (2 miles from Yosemite Park)....

After checking in, I made my first phone call to my brother and parents...this was the first time I had actually felt I really needed someone to talk to...if I had kept the details of the events in my head, I would have gone mad! I also needed another voice, another opinion...even writing this is helping me...blogs are not just there to let you know what a great time I'm having and 99% of the time it is the best time of my life...I just need to get through this 1%.

As soon as I heard my brother's voice, I burst into tears...I'd been holding it all in and now I could be any way I wanted to be..he was my brother after all..
After an emotional exchange, I felt angry with myself that I could not deal with this alone....but there is something I am beginning to realise anyway..I'm far too hard on myself..I don't need to prove anything to anyone..what I have managed to achieve, my parents informed me, is amazing..not many people could do it...I should remember that.


The kindness of strangers is a wonderful thing....I was at a low point and the Chinese assistant in the general store stood chatting to me about China (I'm planning to go back within the next five years)...she's planning to go back to Beijing. She told me when I come again, I will have a friend and she wrote her email address on my receipt. Then the ranger invited me to his small group (4-6 people)night walk in Yosemite....I'm in the park right now..it is beautiful and surpasses anything I have seen so far...I'm off to explore!

Sideways - For the Love of the Grape

A few days ago I was picked up in a huge, glossy black 4x4 by an Italian/American called Janie to embark on 3 hours of sampling the delights of the grape in the Napa Valley.

on this journey with me was a great couple from Oregon. There is a significant link here...Oregon is fast becoming the wine growing region of America. The changing climte is damaging the perfect cool mornings and hot afternoons the Californian vineyards require...they are very aware of their competition!

In a 10 mile stretch, there are over 100 vineyards. Wine is a very serious business in California, people talk seriously about the grape...the vintage and the food it compliments. The landscape is beautiful...If you've ever seen the film 'Sideways', every glance could have easily been taken from the film...lines and lines of neatly planted vines on flat fields and rolling hills, each one having its own microclimate to produce a different type of wine.

I was pleased I had taken the option to be driven to appreciate all of the landscape and of course...drink!

There were lots of Pinot Noirs, Chardonnay and Zinfandel to be tasted and I wasted no time!

I'm pleased I went for the 3-hour tour...any more and I would have fallen over..we started at 10.45a.m. and finished at 2.15p.m.!

Janie knew a lot of the growers and this added to the experience!

Wine does not come cheap...unless of course, it is the 'Gallo' vineyard. The name 'Gallo' makes many Californian wine makers shudder. The 4-6 pound bottles we see on our supermarket shelves are mass produced by shaking the vines violently with machines until all the fruit has fallen. There is a snobbery about this type of wine in California. More and more growers are producing 'boutique' wines where only 500 cases are produced and some of the process is done by hand.

Boutique wines cost between $16-35 dollars a bottle. I settled for a juicy Zinfandelat $22. The winemaker has had an unusual path to winemaking...his parents paid for him to go to Harvard to study law. After two years with a top law firm, he told his parents he would prefer to make wine! They were horrified, he was their investment...but seeing how determined he was, gave him a deal that he could make a case of wine and if it was any good he could continue, if not, it was back to the law firm....and so the story goes the case won many gold wine awards and the rest is history..

I quite like the idea of buying a wine from someone who went for his dream and got it.

I got on really well with Janie. We ended up having lunch together and she then she asked me to join her at the weekend on her friend's yatch close to the Golden Gate Bridge to waterski..sounds great!

Yes, I know the way to Santa Rosa

After breakfast in a great 50s diner, playing the sounds of Johnny Cash and having a chat with some of the locals, I got back in the car.

After driving the wrong way down a one-way street, up and down the steep slopes of San Francisco (the handbreak was used most of the time), crossing 'The Golden Gate Bridge' (stunning), I was in Santa Rosa within an hour..

The car rules here and despite the lack of pavement, I walked. I'm off to the Napa Valley on a wine tour tomorrow and getting some energy for some great walks in Yosemite on Monday.

San Francisco

I've just had my first bout of unpleasant travelling experiences...and instead of being able to share the troubles with someone else, I had my mad five minutes and scraped myself off the floor....

First, I had a ridiculous amount of money in liquid toiletries taken off me at Sydney. The recent terrorist paranoia of the United States have created a situation where barrels of the stuff is being taken off uninformed individuals.

Then...I don't think you have driven until you have driven in San Francisco...give me Australia any day, this was scary..and I had satellite navigation!!! Before embarking on this drive to my city hotel, I picked up my car...they have given me a really fun 'Chrysler' style car with lots of character. I noticed a few dents on it and reported them straight away but on arriving at the hotel, the valet parking guy noticed another small dent on the bumper. I called the car rental place to report yet another dent to add to the growing number and guess what? They had no record of my previous complaint!! I had to inform them all over again, express my anger at their complacent attitude and tell them I would (and I did) take photographic evidence..

It was such a rough start to an otherwise great day.

I only had late afternoon onwards to explore the city (I shall be returning in just under a week). You know, I love San Francisco already... It has such a good feeling about it, so cosmopolitan and so effortlessly cool. I can only describe it as New York on great slopes and muscle relaxants!

I got sucked into the fabulous shopping opportunities (of course), saw jeep limos so big and 'box-like' they needed all two lanes and the pavement to turn a corner, and went to Chinatown.

Chinatown is huge! There is a strong chinese and spanish population in San Francisco. In Chinatown, it really is like stepping into Beijing, although it is not so flat and there are more cars. The area is so authentic, the Chinese even have their own banks! I had some delicious sushi and made some friends in the restaurant (people are generally really friendly).

There are some great street artisits in San Francisco. I have already seen tap dancing and a beat box set. There are also lots of mini protests...usually about the sin in the world and the importance of marriage. All of this seems quite pointless as San Francisco is gay capital of the world...and people are open and happy with it..it's how it should be!

I'm leaving early for my journey along the coast tomorrow...perhaps the driving will get better!

Travelling Companions, The Blue Mountains &The Orchestra

With the many wonderful people I have met through my travels, probability dictates I will also meet a few awful ones or at the very least, annoying...

My first encounter was on my jeep trip into The Blue Mountains. There were six of us altogether...two couples, me and Jen...another woman travelling alone for a few weeks and mostly on tours.. I can remember once reading a book about travelling solo and the author talking about how your new found energy, desire to remain travelling alone without the restrictions of another and I suppose selfishness is put to the test when another person, you don't quite 'click' with, imposes on your travel plans. It is never a case of...I'm travelling alone, so are you, hey why don't we do things together?

Before I continue, The Blue Mountains were stunning! I consider myself very lucky to have been with a guide who had lived there all his life and loved the area with a passion...We left the tourist trails behind and he took us to these little known places with breathtaking scenery.. The mountains are actually blue, the eucalyptus trees reflect in the sunlight a hint of blue.. We also went to this wonderful wildlife retreat and I met a ranger on the way on carrying a baby kangaroo! He let me hold it and I really didn't want to give it back.........

Jen was not really annoying until we went out that evening... Don't get me wrong, it was great to have someone of a similar age to go out for cocktails and a meal along Darling Harbour but the whole travelling experience has allowed me to embrace the truly interesting people with great depth and reject those that waste my time...

I've realised, many of these 'interesting' people do not say very much, they leave you to discover the great things about them...like Claudia and the Professor in Hong Kong... Unfortunately, the annoying talk about themselves constantly about the inane and boring...Jen talked about herself constantly and at the end of most sentences was an expletive....her talk was to the extent where your words were projected and returned with great force..she was on her mission to say whatever she needed to say and anything you said was an interference...I'm sure we have all met at least one person like that before..

Lastly, her time keeping was awful... I can be a few minutes late and it is a trait, when shown, I hate in myself but half an hour late on a regular basis, is really not good enough..

I brought up the lateness and constant talking in conversation (in the two second gap I had). This is something I would not normally do...perhaps I'm less tolerant of people who are so rude and self involved...

She wanted to spend some of the next day with me but I had other plans..Feeling mean, I said I'd be going for a drink after the orchestra ...she could come..

It is a good job I got on with my drink I promised myself after the Opera House...again she was over half an hour late......... She had one saving grace... We were both being given a tale of woe by a man at a bar and it was becoming quite annoying.. She created a fiction with another man a short distance away from us and he saved us from any further need to endure it! Infact, this same man was the owner of a fantastic club in the heart of Sydney...it was a wonderful mix of Edwardian and modern furniture and had a brilliant mix of disco and 80s music. It was great to dance...it seems so long since I last had a good dance...

Now I'm across the road from my hotel...relieved to be alone again and hopeful new frienships will be as great as my early experiences or, quite frankly, I'd prefer to be alone...

The orchestra was a wonderful ending to my stay in Sydney and Australia..it was a real mix..some traditional pieces by Mozart and a modern piece with aboriginal singing and instruments...the piano strings were plucked by a fishing line and the piano was played simultaneously...amazing!

Earlier that day, I had also HOURS in the "Powerhouse Museum'. I thought this museum was so interesting and a must to anyone who would like London's Science and Design Museum rolled into one on a grand scale. I particularly like the exhibitions on theatre design and space...Did you know urine is recycled and pumped back into the air conditioning system for space travel?!!!

I also browsed China Town and a superb fish and vegetable market by the harbour.

I am keen to move on now...I don't think Australia has really fed my soul like Hong Kong and Malysia did...I think I am completely in love with the east...but I did find Sydney interesting...it was definately everything I thought it was not..for that, it was surprising and Sydney harbour and Opera House is a sight to behold...but onwards..I'm dreading the long flight!

Ghost Village, Koalas, Paddington & Pirates

Yesterday I left my visit to the Olympic Village until 3.30p.m. and left an hour later... It felt ghostly, hardly anyone was around... It seemed sad an area once filled with hundreds of thoudands of people was now virtually empty.

I walked up to the stadium where there was a forest of metal poles containing the names of every participant in the 2000 Sydney Olympics... Stories of sporting achievement echoed out of the speakers but that seemed so long ago..no one was listening now...well just me and an old couple.

I wondered whether all the millions we will pour into the development of Stratford will create such desolation after the storm has blown over.........

Today I took the early boat to Taronga Zoo just to see a Koala bear..I realise this is desperation but with only a few days left in Australia, I had to grab any available opportunity...I just sat there staring at these beautiful creatures for what seemed an hour..there is something wonderfully innocent about them..I felt a little uneasy about the rest of the zoo..any place that creates an environment where animals walk round and round in circles on a regular basis and are forced to be 'photgraphed' with tourists desperate for that special shot.......... Well, zoos have moved on...this one, still has some of that to do.

Desperate to see another side to Sydney I headed to the outskirts of the city, Paddington. I really liked the area. It was a little more rough around the edges but the houses were really old and had great character. The place has a reputation for being 'expensive' and up and coming..

Paddington definately had a New York feel...like Greenwich Village.. It was also an opportunity to shop for some great clothes...unlike London, boutique shopping in Sydney is very reasonable and so I was able to pick up some great original designs at a very small price! I had some really interesting conversations with some of the shop owners about the area and how they are in danger, along with the artisits, of being priced out.

I have just come back from a production of 'The Pirates of Penzance'. I am not the greatest fan of G & S but I found this a wonderful production. Of course, the fact that at the interval, you walk out onto magnificent views of Sydney harbour, does add to the experience. Water and cough sweets are complimentary to all...nothing must spoil the performance! The lead pirate definately had a Johnny Depp swagger and most women will agree with me...this does help!

I'm off in jeeps to the Blue Mountains tomorrow and then I find myself with one last day before my flight to San Francisco. Although my hotel is in Darling Harbour, despite one delicious tuna steak, I have had no other reason to go there yet...so I plan to go to the Powerhouse Museum and Aquarium.

I have to admit, all this travelling and exploration, have caught up on me now...I feel exhausted and will not put myself under any pressure to see Manly or Bondi...there's always another trip.......I don't think I have walked so much in my life........ My bed is calling me!

History and Heights

I decided to treat Sunday as a real Sunday and not a tourist Sunday... After a long breakfast with the newspapers, I walked down to 'The Rocks' market...it reminds me of Greenwich market and had some really unusual things to buy.

I would urge anyone to go to 'The Susannah House Museum' in The Rocks. It is a row of two up, two down houses in an area that was once run down and the entry point for many immigrants. Ironically, areas like The Rocks and homes like it have increased in price and the whole area has been gentrified...sounds like another Notting Hill to me!

The homes have a great substance to them...with old backyards complete with tin baths and outdoor lavatories! I met a couple at the museum and we talked at some length. They have lived in Australia for over 30 years. They talked about their unease of the political situation. For some time when they first arrived, they felt their lives were controlled to some extent by ridiculous rules and regulations. They also felt uncomfortable about the racism within the country...they felt even Sydney had a long way to go...they felt London was streets ahead in terms of integration. I have to admit, I know what they mean, I think it is particularly bad with the older generation, there is an acute ignorance of anyone else and their lives. They don't even realise how offensive they are being!

I was listening to the radio on my way down to Sydney and I was listening to one debate programme about how much money they should spend on aboriginal education and whether it is worth it! I found this astounding! News and the media have very much exploded in Australia...it is now everywhere and yet a short while ago, in some areas, it was quite limited...people knew no better.. Let us hope the channels of communication and the freedom they now enjoy, raise those levels of debate and get people to question old ideals... Surely this can only be a good thing?

The same couple are staying put in Australia for the time being... They once had a cottage in Sussex and now they have a four bedroom, large house in Australia with lots of land... if they sold up now, they would not have the money to buy something similar in Sussex... the quality of life is just not comparable!

I had a wonderful afternoon in the 'Museum of Contemporary Art'. In contrast this was a space full of work from artists all over the world. Many of the pieces were from India, Africa and Iran... Much of the subject matter was about moving on and escaping war... I was particularly interested by the work of a female artist in Iran. He path to becoming an artist was an interesting one. She was living in France at the time and was suddenly told she needed to go home in 15 days. Desperate to stay, she made a series of WANTED posters requesting a husband so she could gain residency in France. I liked her humour about the whole situation...one poster shows her whole face blanked out with just her eyes on display and the other shows her face with her eyes blanked out. She displayed in her own country, but this was 30 miles from the city and completely underground to avoid arrest...

Many posters later...and two years of work, she was granted permission to stay in France and her posters were recognised as a piece of art in their own right... I know my favourite author, Paul Auster, would find this interesting... it smacks of the work he did with Sophie Calle..

Today, I've just come back from the famous Syney Harbour Bridge Climb... Although it draws tourists like a magnet, nothing can explain how wonderful it really is...

Life is so strange...as we were about to go up, another group were coming down and I realised I knew two of the people in the group! They were a couple in my surf class along the coast!

The view is great.. Life does not stop, cars drive over it, trains pass through it, and all the life below... The mixture of steps and vibrations making it a well used 3 hours.

I was pestered by an American couple in our climb group. The husband thought I looked like a very young version of Julie Andrews!! woman from '. I thought he must be wearing some pretty strong contact lenses as I look nothing like her...but he proceeded to be annoying by telling me how many times he had seen 'The Sound of Music! Funny, I thought he looked like the lead singer of 'Kiss' (without the make-up)...........

The City Awaits....

I had my longest drive yesterday...felt exhausted, took in the last of the Gold Coast and had an early night in my last stop before Sydney, Port Stephens. It was a shame because the area was beautiful, far more interesting than Coffs. It is well known for its sand dunes and a common activity is 'sand dune surfing' (I really liked the sound of that!)

After a long sleep I was pleased to be greeted with short drive (well, two hours) and then Sydney!

The drive into Sydney was spectacular! Great bridges and highways cut into rock. The first glimpse of the city was a wonderful relief.. After a few wrong turns and general frustration because roads I wanted were one-way, I dropped off the car, checked in and hit the city..

Sydney is an extremely easy city to get around.. I've walked the best part of the day, I find it the best way to get my bearings. The first stop was the Sydney Opera House...This building must be one of the most photographed buildings known to man so I tried to get different angles.. the opera house tour was particularly useful for this.. The architect wanted people to feel the harbour had come to them..and it certainly did..but with an estimated building cost of 4 million and a 4 year build this actually became 14 years and over 100 million!

I was pleased to hear the architect has been acknowledged for his grand acheivement and continues to make contributions to the building. This was not the case ten years ago, it was a very similar situation to The Millenium Dome in London...spiralling costs, the building was shaming Sydney and Australia..the government refused to pay him and yet for the love of architecture, he continued.

I expected the Opera House to be white..this is one of the biggest misconceptions...it is actually cream and the disappoinment is only temporary when you realise, despite all this cosmetic trickery, it is a stunning building and the performance spaces are awe inspiring!

We went into the main house I will see Pirates.. I thought Sadlers Wells was one of the most beautiful performance spaces I had seen but this exceeded it. On stage was the skeleton of a boat.. it took up the whole stage! Changes of scene can operate as a lift so adventurous producers and directors can go for elaborate sets.

I booked tickets for two performances on Tuesday (Pirates of Penzance) and Thursday (An Organ Symphony)..I can't wait.

I then made my way down to the Police and Justice Museum. This was quite a brutal affair but armed with a childlike fascination for all things bloody and gruesome, I was eager to find out how people died and why... In the police cells, there were cabinets of different torture items, including sacks and the hangman's noose!

I am considering ending today with the aquarium...

People in Sydney seem a little more human, that is to say, rather than 'no worries', there are a few, you see them expressed, there is some reality, but I have to say, much more laid back than London... I think Sydney has a healthy balance.

Sydney is also very fashion conscious but perhaps not as much as London...Again, anything goes really.

Coffs Blues

Today was going to be an opportunity to explore Coffs Harbour but I have to say, I ended up driving beyond it by the afternoon as there did not seem much to do.

My appartment is about a 10 minute drive from the city centre anyway. After a look around the botanic gardens and shopping for fresh fish for dinner, I headed out to Rayleigh for wine tasting in a winery run almost entirely by one australian woman. After sampling a good shiraz and a peachy rose, I settled for the rose...I can't wait to drink it tonight!

The scenery around Rayleigh is breathtaking. Full of farms, quiet roads and this one vineyard. I sat talking with the owner about travelling alone. Her great love is New Zealand (she spends lots of time sampling the wares of other vineyards) and a great deal of the time she has to go solo as her husband hates travelling....this she finds upsetting. She said if she saw something wonderful she has nobody to turn to and say 'look at that, isn't it wonderful?' I suppose there is that, I have had a few of those moments but the benefits far outweigh any of them.

A moment ago, I took my key to open the door to the appartments private stretch of beach only to find small pebbles, little sand! Trouble is, I've been spoilt by the best...

I'm looking forward to moving on tomorrow...perhaps Port Stephens will have more to offer...who knows? Isn't that the joy of travelling? The unexpected..

The Freedom of the Open Road...

Today I took the scenic route along the coast to my next stop..Coffs Harbour but drove past...on purpose..I went to explore the pretty craft village of Bellingen. I felt like I had stepped back in time! The village consisted mostly of craft shops with a village museum, a post office, a few cafes and a butcher. After driving through the busy Coffs Harbour town, it was a welcome escape. I got talking with the owner of a cafe where I stopped for lunch. She told me how many of the people in Bellingen have not travelled beyond Coffs Harbour..it is a small community. In a few days time the streets will fill with people as Bellingen becomes host to a famous jazz festival...shame I am moving on..

I have really enjoyed the drive so far...the landscape is breathtaking! Today it was a range of small bridges, forest with sunlight streaming through the trees, lakes and farms. I saw my first kangaroo as a roadside casualty...I had been warned how they get startled by the lights.

Anyway..I'm back at Coffs Harbour now..I have own appartment but have indulged in the wonderful seafood restaurant on site!

My balcony in the living room and bedroom overlooks the sea...How lucky am I?

I am really uplifted and really pleased to read the comments people are making on the blog..many thanks!

Riding on the Crest of a Wave

It had to happen didn't it? Today I had my first surfing lesson. Despite any thoughts I may have had about the culture and addiction to the waves, I can now fully understand why this happens...it was AMAZING!!!

After getting into our wetsuits we headed down to the beach. We had a half hour tutorial to warm up, familiarise ourselves with the board and learn the essential move from lying down to standing up. It was tough....a lot more involved than I thought. Even the smallest of waves could seem like mountains to the beginner!

With each try I go braver...The sun was a strong 85 degrees so the 21 degree water brought much comfort!

After my 4th attempt, I stood up!!! It was an amazing experience...even if it were only for 8-10 seconds, the waves carried you and it felt amazing. After that, there was no stopping me! Those 3 hours went quickly! I definately want to do it again...I'm told Manly in Sydney is a good place...so who knows?

There was a photographer to capture all our triumphs and mistakes...But hey...I'm a beginner..Here are a few for you to see...

Hippy Adventures in Byron Bay

Driving to my first stop in Byron Bay was very easy and relaxed...people don't tailgate or get aggressive. The pace of driving is very similar to the pace of life...chilled.

Byron Bay is beautiful...White sands, excellent surf and a majestic lighthouse overlooking all of the beach below.

Byron Bay is also like stepping back in time to the 70s hippy culture! I have never seen a place with so many crystal shops, aura readers, incense, health food shops and yoga retreats. Brisbane was almost horizontal but this place is horizontal..sleeping...

People are friendly, but like the friendliness of the states, I have questioned this a few times...I wonder if anyone else has had this experience?

The place is littered with surfer 'dudes' in brightly coloured shorts... I hope to book a surfing lesson before I depart for Coffs Harbour minus the shorts!

Brief Encounters

I really believe sometimes we meet people for a reason. As a lone traveller, I am meeting heaps (sorry the Australian has got to me). People seem quite happy to tell me their life stories... It is good they feel so comfortable with me, but each exchange can unearth a whole range of thoughts and feelings you were not aware of or too busy to consider.

On a coach journey lasting one hour I met another person and I thought for many hours after our conversation ended...

She was in her 70s. Travelling to see her daughter. She used to live in Cairns but moved to Hervey Bay to be near some of her family. Her husband died 7 years ago... her voice broke at this point... this was clearly difficult for her. He travelled to a great extent to visit family all over the world and on his return looked pale and thin. She found he had six months left to live and cursed herself for not accompanying him on his travels.

She talked of her loneliness and how painting had become a great solace to her. She revealed a canvas wrapped in thin cloth and I could see this was her creative saviour. Life is too short...... Live, Love, Travel, Experience..... We all need this creativity in our lives. Why should we insist we simply do not have the time?

Fishing for my Supper

Today I decided I had done quite enough walking, day trips, museums and temples. I just wanted time to reflect and relax. I got up late and headed to the beach for my forst fishing lesson. Something very strange happened... I was not expecting it ...

I could see this was a very male sport, I was the only girl (but, brilliant at doing all those complicated knots with my smaller hands!) BUT I loved it... What was only meant to be one hour became two and if the instructor had not told me to pack up, I'm sure I could have been there all afternoon!

I got a few bites but not enough to pull the line in and show everyone my prize fish.... these fish were smart ... I could see many of them through the clear waters and yet they did not seem tempted by the tasty squid I was offering them on the end of my line. I knew then, I would surely starve if this fishing expedition was dinner.

I then went for a swim and had my first afternoon sleep... Wonderful!

I am now 30 pages away from a book my brother suggested 'Being Dead' by Jum Crace. It is a beautiful book and so well written. It was also strange because the two victims in the text are interested in the sea plants and wildlife. This was the setting for much of my reading and I was equally captivated by the sea plants and creatures. It is strange to read a text that reflects your surrounds or emotional state... it draws you in closer..perhaps that's why I am savouring the last 30 pages for the train journey back to Brisbane.

Creatures of the Sea

After 2 hours on the sea, we spotted our first whale. It was an amazing sight but more amazing half an hour later when they decided to come a little closer (2 metres infact) to our boat. They were such beautiful creatures and despite their mass, so graceful in the water. It was a very emotional experience. I took many photographs but the paper evidence could not compare with the memories I now have. The whales come to Hervey Bay about the same time each year to make their way to the Antartic.

Later, I went for a plant walk and looked at some of the useful plants the aboriginals used to make a variety of weapons as well as cooking tools. It was a good way to meet people too.

I then took a map, plenty of water and sunscreen and headed for the beach. I was the only person around for about half a mile. There are many walks in the park carefully designed for different levels of fitness. I took many photographs and imagined myself stranded.

Suddenly I saw an army of small crabs (called soldier crabs) come marching towards me. It was an amazing sight!

Later, with a few beers, I watch the sunset... Bliss!

I have not seen the common dingo but there are many guidelines for what to do in that situation.

The park is all set up for eco living and whale conservation so you can holiday and feel good you are doing something for the environment.

Hervey Bay

After a 3 hour tilt train ride, a 1 hour bus ride and a 40 minute boat ride, I am at Kingfisher Bay Resort.

I am pleased I chose train as one of my modes of transport. I think I actually got to see some of the Australia we get to read about in books and see in films and documentaries. Many of these 'one horse' towns simply had a bakery and a general store and not a person in sight. Many of the wooden houses are designed to keep the house as cool as possible. In front of many of the windows you will find shutters. Even in the Australian winter I am encountering temperatures of over 80!

Australians definately know how to do do long distance train travel. I had so much leg room, entertainment and food and drink supplied... I suddenly had a very different view of our much loved 'British Rail'. In my carriage there were plenty of Australian pensioners enjoying the winter sun. Many Australians from Melbourne and Sydney choose the Gold Coast as a holiday destination due to the higher temperatures. Is is also quite common for people to reach a pensionable age and pack up their things in the city and move to the coast. I suppose it is very much the same trend in the UK. Property is also very cheap here. I noticed many new developments offering 3-4 bedroom houses with plenty of land, near the coast and great amenties for about 100 000 English Pounds!

The island was simply stunning! With so many modes of transport to get me there, I feel like I am miles from anywhere!

My room is in the middle of a forest and all I can hear are the many birds calling to each other.

Tomorrow I have booked three things to do (as well as resting ... I intend to do that too) It starts with whale watching for half a day out on boats, then later in the afternoon I am going to go on a ranger walk to find out which plants I could eat to keep me alive in the unlikely event of being caught in the bush and finally, after dinner, I have another ranger walk in the dark!!!

I'm not sure if I am liking Australia as much as I enjoyed Hong Kong and Malaysia but I am going to give it time!

Yesterday was the first evening I actually felt a little lonely, perhaps that is why I am finding it hard to connect with the country at the moment. I am informed all of this will pass. I am looking forward to tomorrow...

No Worries Mate

Today I am immersed in the culture of Brisbane. It is certainly different and I can definately say it has taken time to 'grow on me'. Brisbane is laid back to the point of horizontal. This theory was proven when taking lunch with Clare in the busy city centre (I am currently being shown around the city by a work colleagues son and girlfriend). Everyone took their full hour lunchbreak and filled the parks with their picnic lunches, chats and reading.

Tonight I am at their house, post dinner and looking forward to the train to Hervey Bay. It was about 77 degrees today (not bad for Australia in the winter).

Goodbye Singapore, Durian & Changi Airport

I'm writing blog this using one of the many free internet stations at the wonderful Changi Airport. I even arrived early to avoid the rush and explore the many free services it offers (pool, movies...etc).

On the way to the airport I was once again engaged in conversation by a young taxi cab driver. Like another driver, he expressed his frustration with the restrictions on his freedom of speech and how people in Singapore have to pay for all stages of their education. He told me he would be arrested if he started a protest and thrown into prison. He also informed me his decision not to go to university was partly money and partly laziness!

We also talked at length about the prized fruit of Malaysia, the durian.

Durians are the 'King of Fruit' to the Malay people. People go the Kuala Lumpur to buy them as they are more expensive in Singapore. However, there is one drawback to all of this, If you can get past the smell of rotting food and garlic, you will find (I am informed of this but I have not been able to get past the smell and therefore fail to give you this firsthand) taste is no better. The fruit seems to be more popular with Malaysian men and cafes sell trays of durian for all to enjoy.

I made some joke about the esplanade theatres (I visited these today) looking like the skin of a durian.... I soon realised this was the point! The Malays are so taken by this fruit, despite its odour, they have shown their appreciation in the form of a building!

One taxi I took today, it was clear the driver had just eaten a whole tray full ... there was no escape ...I really felt ill.

I am meeting the son of a work colleague and his girlfriend for dinner in Brisbane tomorrow ... I'm sure Australia will be a whole new experience altogether.

Peace and Tranquility

I have realised it is possible to plan too much for one day and it is possible to eat so much steamed rice over the course of two weeks you have simply had enough!
Today, after sending off 15kg of my luggage and gifts via the efficient Singapore air postal service and indulging in my favourite sushi plates, I went to escape in the grounds of the botanical park.

For a while, an escape from the city was pure bliss. The orchids were simply stunning, particularly the 'Tiger' orchid. I had just bought two new novels so I found a shady spot and read.

Today I must have walked the city twice over (at least that is what it felt like). Singapore is incredibly easy to navigate ... I feel like a local already!

People all over the city are preparing for Singapore's birthday on Wednesday. It is a national holiday, firework displays will light the skies and parades will pour onto the streets. Everywhere you go, people are lighting candles and praying for Singapore and its success.

This afternoon, I had the perfect cure for all this walking... it was my spa booking in the afternoon. For 30 minutes I was kneaded into a relaxed state and every knot was removed. The foot bath brought my feet back to life and the whole experience... the chinese tea, the beautiful oriental music, soothed me into a slumber.

Tonight I took a 'bumboat' with my canadian friends along the harbour quay and had a delicious meal of steamed rice (my last bowl!) and chicken pandan (chicken wrapped in banana leaf and cooked in thai spices ... delicious!)

Raffles and The Curse of the Mosquito Bites

I've had a very interesting day in Singapore... The Museum of Asian Civilisation is a must! I found the shadow theatre and chinese theatre masks particularly interesting.

On the way back, I got talking to my cab driver. He told me my hotel used to be a brothel... He was a police officer for 21 years and it had a reputation. Of course, this was many years ago! However, he informed me, the cafe across the road kept the 'red light' tradition in full swing at the first hint of the night!

Sadly, he informed me of what I had suspected. Singapore may appear to be a clean, wealthy and well ordered society but the price as a police officer was a life full of restrictions and rules. People seem suffocated by the weight of the system that governs them. He left the police force, took an early pension and was unable to find work. His decision to earn money as a cab driver was a temporary one, at least that is what he thought.

In the afternoon I had a little retail therapy in one of the many malls in Singapore. Orchard Road is the equivalent of London's Oxford Street. One mall (all 6 floors) exhausted me. I am a hardened shopper but I think I had met my match. The malls too have a 'clinical perfection', long polythene bags for wet umbrellas are provided outside entrances to prevent drips of rain falling onto the perfectly tiled floors! The traditional chinese malls full of food stalls, fortune tellers and chinese medicine are far more interesting.

My mosquito bites have transformed into pus-filled boils ... it is not an attractive sight. In a coutry where they believe in 'karma', I wished for awful things for those mosquitoes and their bellies full of my blood! So ashamed of my legs, I wore trousers to the famous 'Raffles Hotel'. You could imagine Noel Coward sipping a Singapore Sling as we did that evening. Monkey nuts are provided free of charge with the very expensive cocktail. The waiters encourage you to throw your shells on the floor! Around each table and there is a distinct 'crunch' of shells as you step on them getting to your seat. You feel almost like a delinquent for doing it but you are simply adding to the tradition.

After the cocktail, I went off with my canadian friends to sit by the river lit up in all its glory and tell stories of chance happenings and coincidences. Tomorrow is our last night, we are going to take a boat down the river and eat in one of the riverside restuarants.

Tomorrow, I plan to go to the 'Esplanade' (an array of theatres and outdoor arts events ... like our National Theatre) to watch some performances and see a photography display. Later I am going to a Spa. I booked it today. It is eventually getting a lot easier to paper myself without the guilt..

Things that go 'Bump' in the Night!

After a 5 hour bus journey from Melaka, I finally arrived in Singapore. It was a hard city to initially warm to, somehow it lacked the vibrant nature of Kuala Lumpur or the history of Melaka, perhaps it seemed just too regimented but eventually, I am pleased to say, that began to change. After a long walk around the city, I discovered the Singapore River in all its magnificance. The stunning architecture, riverside cafes and colonial feel from the days of Sir Thomas Stanford Raffles using Singapore as a trading post of the British Empire were quite spectacular.

Last night we had our final group meal. Many would be going home and a few others staying on. For a moment, I had reached a low point, I was on my own again. However, today, I picked myself up and at breakfast had two invitations to things with the existing group members. One of them sounds quite exciting and I shall certainly look forward to dressing up and going to the 'Raffles Hotel' and then for a meal.
One Irish couple have looked after me with the same care as they may a daughter...it has been really lovely overall.

Last night we all went to Singapore Zoo for the 'Night Safari'. It is no wonder Singapore has won the tourism awards for this popular attraction. The place was lit up by the flames of fire eaters and the sounds of the african jungle. A short train ride takes you slowly around the Zoo at night to watch the animals dimly lit in all their glory. It is a wonderful idea to do this... some of the animals behaved very differently at night and the nocturnal animals are there to see like never before(including the bats, flying above your head!)

I'm off to see the Asian Civilisation Museum near the Quayside. I like this area. As I found out yesterday, the people of Singapore love the arts and their are many places to watch theatrical or musical performances.

I have 8 lovely mosquito bites on my legs courtesy of Melaka. Being near a river probably made me the ideal dinner....very attractive indeed!

Fake Gucci Anyone? & Melaka

I have just spent the last two days in Kuala Lumpur. It is an acquired taste but I quite liked it. The night market was a real eye opener.. 'Lady, lady, you want handbag? Gucci...you like?' Every stall was another Gucci, Chanel or Chloe fake. If you stayed standing for long enough you would see the stalls erected as quick as they came down (about 3 minutes). This was particularly handy when the police caught sight of your fake goods and with a little help from walkie-talkies (a stallholders essential) you never need to caught! I am quite good at the whole bargaining for a good price now!

I visited a war memorial, pewter museum and the wonderful 'Batu Caves'.
The whole day was rounded off with a foot massage with elements of reflexology. I cannot say it was relaxing, at times it was painful but I have never had anyone give my feet one hour of loving attention like this man did! It was also a good chance to speak to many of the local people. At certain times I told my reflexologist to not put me through so much pain. He told me pain is essential to the healing process. Whether this is true or not, I felt like a new woman the day after.

Today, after a two hour bus ride I am in Melaka, a beautiful, historical port steeped in history. It is one of those places you want to go down every alley, and explore every temple and church... It is an amazing place for the budding photographer.

I am off now to embark on a boat trip and then a trishaw before the night market and the local dish of 'chicken rice balls'.

Sand, Sand, Sand

Last night I got chatting to another amazing person in our group. He has been involved in setting up arts projects for people in cities...outdoor sculpture, music and art from around the world etc.. He had a wonderful attitude to life and work.

All of this to the sound of lapping waves (my bedtime relaxation noise) and having sand in your toes!

Today we took a speed boat to a secluded freshwater lake just off one of the smaller islands. It was simply stunning, surrounded by forest and inhabitated by monkey or two and beautiful birds.

I could not wait to remove my clothes and jump in! The water felt so comforting, warm, a perfect tonic...

After an hour, a few of us got together and hired a banana boat ride around the lake...I don't think I have screamed so much in ages! We fell off (of course) but is that not the point?

The rest of the morning we saw eagles being fed and took the speed boat to a smaller island to explore, swim and think. Today has been a wonderful opportunity to think, even at this moment, writing is usually a great luxury and yet there is no restrictions on my time, no watch and no concerns beyond what to eat and how much sunscreen I need .... A hard life isn't it?

After a great lunch of black pepper chicken and rice, I took a cable car to Langkawi's best viewing point.

Tonight we are going to have some great food and drinks and watch the sunset...this is perfect! At times I feel I am lost for words...